Turning Tables: Eleven Madison Park Grand Prize Winner Returns, Plant Based
More than a year after closing its doors due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Wine spectator Grand Prize winner Eleven Madison Park has reopened. The New York destination usually launches new menus every season, but this one has a special feature: since June 10, the restaurant is the first Grand Prix winner to offer cuisine exclusively based on plants.
Chef-owner Daniel Humm says the change was inspired by a desire to forge a more sustainable footprint and to strengthen the team’s creativity and connections with local farmers. “Each dish is made up of vegetables, both from the land and from the sea, as well as fruits, legumes, mushrooms, grains and more,” Humm said in a statement. “We have worked tirelessly to immerse ourselves in this kitchen. It was an incredible journey, a time of so much learning. The restaurant is not entirely vegan, however; dairy products and honey will be available along with coffee and tea service.
The wine list of 5,000 selections backed by a cellar of 22,000 bottles will remain largely the same. “Our desire to serve an all plant-based menu is in large part a creative decision based on the ingredients we find inspiring at this level of dining,” said Wine Manager Watson Brown. Wine spectator by email. “This concern does not extend to the use of animal products in wine, which are mainly used in an optional process called fining. Some of the producers on our list may be fine, many others not. As we are not a vegan restaurant, we will not adjust the wine program in this way. “
Still, the menu change offers an exciting opportunity to reconsider the wine list and how it pairs with Humm’s food. “There seems to be this [misconception] in the wine world that certain styles of wine (red wine in particular) can only be served with red meat, and that these producers are not the ones who focus on sustainability, ”Brown continued. “These wines pair well with meat because it’s roasted, grilled, smoked, etc., not inherently because it’s meat. Likewise, the producers we defend on our list work to ensure the highest quality fruit for their wines, which means paying attention to the ecosystem of their vineyards.
While the tasting menu will retain its gourmet price, a portion of the proceeds will support the restaurant’s continued efforts to deliver free meals to hungry New York residents. Since the start of the pandemic, the restaurant’s food truck has worked with Rethink Food to deliver nearly a million meals to those in need across town. “It’s time to redefine luxury as an experience that serves a higher purpose and maintains an authentic connection with the community,” Humm notes. “A restaurant experience is not just about what’s on the plate. We’re excited to share the incredible possibilities of plant-based cooking while deepening our connection to our homes: both our city and our planet.Taylor McBride
Michael Mina’s RN74 Seattle closes permanently
Chief Michael Mina’s Seattle outpost of RN74 announced this month that it will not reopen after it closes in 2020 in response to the pandemic. This ends a long term for the RN74 concept; the original location in San Francisco opened in 2009 and won a Grand Prix until it closed in fall 2017.
In Seattle, the wine program had consistently won a Best of award for excellence since 2012. The list was overseen by wine manager Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen, who brought the selection to nearly 2,500 labels. The substantial list highlighted many regional strengths, excelling in Burgundy but also offering an impressive range of selections from Bordeaux, Rhône and Champagne, as well as Washington and Oregon. Chef Shawn Applin ran the kitchen and served French-influenced steak house dishes.
The space itself will live on, however, as Mina’s restaurant group plans to replace the RN74 with a Bourbon steak this fall. The chain is one of the group’s many award-winning businesses, with Margeaux Brasserie in Chicago, Michael Mina in Las Vegas and San Francisco, and three Stripsteak establishments.Julie harans
Girl and the goat arrive in Los Angeles
Chef Stephanie Izard will bring her daughter and the award-winning goat to the Los Angeles Arts District in mid-July. With cuisine similar to the original on-farm restaurant in Chicago, this is the latest addition to the Boka group of restaurants, which includes the winner of the Boka Award of Excellence and the winner of the Swift & Sons Award of Excellence. “We originally announced Girl & the Goat [Los Angeles] in 2019, but waited to open until we felt it was safe to do so, ”Izard said via email. “Our space and our team have been ready to go for a while and we are delighted to open our doors.”
Overseen by Wine Director Ken Fredrickson, the 80-label wine list features a blend of California and other parts of the world, including France and Oregon. A list of 18 labels by the glass is also available. “[It’s] bold and globally influenced, while being approachable with a sense of fun, ”said Izard. Much of the focus is on sustainably and organically produced wines, with particular emphasis on small wineries. Refreshing reds and low-alcohol wines are also offered.
“This is an international list with a few areas of thoughtful focus,” said Izard. “Respect for the ‘New California’ movement, the desire to promote wines from truly biodiverse farms and, perhaps most importantly, a friendly philosophy. “
Several menu items have been carried over from the original location, including wood-grilled broccoli, goat empanadas, and pan-roasted halibut with blueberry and nuoc cham sauce. Customers can also expect new dishes showcasing Californian ingredients, like Vietnamese sausage over fries, a carrot-tahini dip with tahini tofu, and curried goat cheese with radishes, pickled vegetables and vegetables. masa chips.
Girl & the Goat will open in the new At Mateo complex with indoor and outdoor seating. Izard describes the relaxed space as “timeless and familiar, with an air of ‘come as you are’. This includes lots of plants, bright colors and high ceilings. Izard said she moved to the site once she found out that the Arts District had a similar feel to Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood, where the original restaurant is located.Collin dreizen
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